he desert is like the beach without the water, a mirage-laden acid trip without the technicolour and tie-dyes, and a dusty room without the old man smell. Hungry yet? This downtown restaurant serves up traditional Lebanese to Calgarians who still can't pronounce 'Shish Taouk'. Shish Ta-ook. Shish Tall-k. Shish talk. If the last one isn't a cable access show, it should be. - S.T.