ometimes, like the girl next door, the hottest scene has been in front of us all along. It's easy to forget the originals, the loyal bars that are always there, serving dinner and drinks, always user-friendly, never hassling at the door. Amazingly, the Metropolitan Grill soldiers on, pacifying the younger cocktail crowd and local Gen-Xers who have taken possession of this restaurant-cum-dance club.

If the road to longevity and success is paved by food and drink, then the Met's 8th Avenue offshoot definitely has what it takes to survive and prosper. As a bar, restaurant, second-level lounge, and dance floor, this dynamic spot has something on the go just about every hour that it's open and it's a long day for the Met: it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner before morphing into a danceteria.

While in its restaurant guise, Metropolitan features a menu that, while a tad formulaic, is lovingly concocted. In particular, the signature coconut shrimp martini - crisp, coconut-coated and served with horseradish - evidences the pure and flavourful ingredients at work. The AAA Alberta Angus beef, glistening with lobster butter, is served with the expected sides: baked or mashed spuds. The New Zealand spring lamb and a wild mushroom veal scallopini also happily (while, the lamb was probably a bit reluctant) make an appearance on the list.

Then, late at night, when the tables get discretely shoved aside, bam! The Metropolitan Grill becomes an ad hoc club (though, minus the useless attitude). The staff is sexy; the nicely-lubricated crowd is unusually uninhibited; and the music is key. From tribal house and progressive beats, to the smooth, murky blade of drum 'n' bass, the music is what defines the Metropolitan Grill.

The dearly dedicated clientele knows that the Met is not only a fine place to see and be seen, but also a club with an irresistible beat. According to the hungry and thirsty masses, it's impressive one-stop shopping. -R.L.