WEhat do you do when you must forsake two high-end restaurants, including an eponymous one? Do you build buildings out of food? Not exactly. Like Art Vandelay, renowned Vancouver/Iron chef Rob Feenie has become an architect of sorts. The famous former head of Lumiere and Feenie's has taken a job with Cactus Club restaurants. According to a press release, Feenie's new title is Food Concept Architect. How fancy.

Feenie’s resurfacing at Cactus has surprised many in the restaurant industry. Created in 1987, the BC-based chain has since expanded to 17 locations in BC and Alberta, serving refined tex-mex with a hit of disparate Asian offerings (nothing goes with quesadillas like edamame). In an unexpected bid to spruce up the CC menu, inspire staff, and spotlight quality, the chain has brought Feenie on board in a creative/guru roll.

The revamped menu takes the original Tex-Mex/Asian fusion to a whole new level. Steaks lie next to dim sum and tacos on the versatile card. The Hawaiian Poke ($12) sounds like a good vacation but is actually an expertly crafted starter plate. Fresh sashimi grade Ahi tuna cuddles with amenable prawns on a lush bed of avocado, macadamia nuts and tropical fruit salsa with crispy wonton chips on the side and a reserved drizzle of sesame ginger vinaigrette. Stepping out of the Asian influence and into the Tex sector, there is the tempting jambalaya rice bowl ($14.50). The New Orleans staple is done with generous portions of shrimp, chicken, bacon and sausage with spice notes of sour cream and cilantro. The Mexican stand-out menu option is the soft fish taco plate ($11.50). Thick hunks of seared Cajun snapper, chipotle aioli, shredded green cabbage and fresh salsa are wrapped up into a soft wrap for easy, mess-free eating.

A mainstay in Calgary’s after-work and weekend scenes, Cactus Club packs in a crowd of twenty and thirtysomethings, but thanks to its wildly popular margaritas, the spot draws a fairly hip multi-generational crowd. Fresh, hand-squeezed lime juice has the nine-to-fivers literally running to snag a spot on the patio. The bar stocks more than 20 types of tequila and bartenders gladly offer some guidance for the margarita novice.

Cactus Club is mainly a place to meet new people. The dining room is large, but there's often a wait for a table early in the evening, even midweek. So, get there early for a seat at the bar for a view of the beer nuts. Get there very, very early on warm days for a seat on the sidewalk patio. - MBO