he White Nile is okay, but the Blue Nile (aka the Abbay) is where it's at. Blue water isn't just for Smurfs anymore and, similarly, Ethiopian fare is no longer just for backpackers and Ethiopians. Specializing in traditional Ethiopian food, BN serves a dense wat (aka stew) and the accompanying inerja (aka bread) in a laid-back, semi-casual, mother- country- winking atmosphere. Though far from budget, Blue Nile won't break your bank. Sushi and tapas are done, jump on the Ethiopian train - or the more apropos metaphorical boat - before every other foodie beats you to the cred punch. -S.T.