pen kitchens can be disconcerting (see any fast food outlet), but in an haute modern environment where chefs move about deftly and churn out authentic and accessible Korean fare, it makes for an exciting dining experience. Koryo continues to expand its Korean kitchen empire, adding fast-bite restos across the country. Traditional options include versatile Udon and tofu, while steak, chicken, and dumpling choices are infused with uniquely Korean touches. Koryo is far from the staid Thai diner. Instead, it updates the menu, giving it a cutting-edge vibe and pairing it with a frenetic atmosphere. -S.T.